Where Have All The Black Models and Designers Gone?
I’m not going to take the, “It’s 2009, we have a Black President route,” because the color infractions that have typically taken place in the fashion world are far greater crimes. If a Black person had never ascended to the office of President, none of us would have really minded. Most were not expecting it to happen in this lifetime anyway. However in fashion, an industry that prides it self on diversity, openness, innovation, inclusion, there has been a major failure, by the powers that be, to embrace Black models and designers in greater numbers. Think I am wrong? Models of color–all ethnicities: Asian, Latino, African and so on, make up 26 percent of the American population according to Wikipedia’s Demographics of the United States. Hell, so-called minorities actually account for 82 percent of the world’s population. Yet, within the fashion world, the total of working Black models equates to less than ten percent. You mean to tell me this is an unintentional coincidence? I think not.
According to former model and agency owner Bethann Hardison, “Modeling is probably the one industry where you have the freedom to refer to people by their color and reject them in their work for it.”
I’m also not going to call it racism. It’s a completely reversible disparity through and through. A disparity, Hardison, Diane Von Fostenberg, Naomi Campbell, Tyson Beckford and Tyra Banks, all have spoken publicly about. Independent online retailers, like the upstart Dezigners Den, have recently emerged promoting style and multi-culturalism simultaneously, by featuring styles by top designers Trina Turk, Kanye’s ex-boo Alexis Phifer’s line Ghita, and also Beyonce’s House of Dereon. Still, the site is less than a year old and has worked hard to maintain their audience during a slowing economy. Other designers on the cusp of a major breakthrough include Duro Olowu, who premiered during 2008′s Spring fashion week and Gavin Douglas.
Ghita
Duro Olowu
Gavin Douglas
The potential talent is out there, however the financiers, fashion houses, and other potential backers are not. Fashion houses often use quotas when it comes to how many Black faces will represent on their runways, and modeling agency heads swear designers are not looking for Black girls. On the model front, youngster Chanel Iman is working the runway circuit appearing in shows for Phillip Lam, Marc Jacobs, and Ralph Lauren in 2008 alone. Newcomer Jessica White is another example of fierce talent, as she is the first model to hold contracts with both Maybelline and Cover Girl. A personal favorite is the uber belle Mimi Roche, who has been featured in campaigns for Dolce and Gabana, Benetton and Banana Republic.
Even last years all Black Vogue Italia, of which Hardison’s agency played a major role in casting, unquestionably slapped down critics, proving the very real viability in ethnic expansion in fashion. In light of the books enormous success, the whole thing was written off as a gimmick, with Conde Nast refusing to do one more printing despite a strong outcry from the public. While no one can force the majors to play equality ball, the tide is certainly turning. Hardison’s panel discussion “Race on the Runway” has really forced the industry to take a hard look at its hiring practices and with the help of other industry heavyweights there can be legitimate and long lasting change.
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Priceless34 on
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Natalie Nichols makes very valid points in this article. Black people are the heart and soul of the fashion industry,even if industry elites will never admit it. You also have to separate European fashion which is very classic and steeped in tradition, and almost totally homogenous in terms of models, designers, creative directors etc. How many Blacks do the major houses even have amongst their editorial and directorial ranks?
You would think in America, where at least urban culture and influence is embraced much more in art and style, that American designers and casting agents would be less racially biased but sadly it isn’t so. I don’t think any of us are asking for a total black out on runways or our favorite fashion magazines, but we would like to see some equality. Can Chanel Iman or any of the other young talent you mentioned get an InStyle or Cosmo cover? Unless you’re a celebrity, Rhianna, Beyonce, Pharell, the majors aren’t interested.
Gavin Douglas is the ish.
Man, the industry needed YSL. He was one major designer consistent with using black models in his show. He once mentioned how he was intrigued by the beauty of the black woman, and became the first to use black models in his runway shows back in the day.
The problem is celebrities have replaced models in every sector. Fashion, commercial, you name it. Even voiceover talent is being replaced by celebs (that is Kevin Spacey’s voice you hear in those Honda ads). Media has gone “global” an in an efforto to retain and build audiences they use the “safest” choices possible – multi-faceted celebrities. Singer/Actor/Designer, gets a prime modeling gig. While a simple model gets….well…nothing.
Let’s not forget that the range of black beauty we saw in the 80′s and 90′s has also been replaced with biracial or very light skinned beauty. With the exception of Oluchi and Jessica White, what other dark skinned models are even “hot” right now? In the 90′s we had Kiara, Naomi, Roshumba, and a few others.
Personally I think its time for black people to stop supporting these designers and labels. If we are not good enough to represent you in the media then you aren’t good enough to get my money. The whole black women/men don’t sell is complete bullshit and was proven to not be the case when Italian Vogue cast an array of beautiful women of color in their magazine this past Summer!
@ Hollywood: you have a great point in that celebrity talent has definitely eclipsed modeling talent in print and TV campaigns (think of actresses like Keira Knightly, Nicole Kidman, Hayden Panettiere, Eva Longoria, Beyonce, Gwyneth Paltrow, etc., etc. who have all landed spokesperson deals with various cosmetics or fashion labels).
And yes, I agree that there need to be more black models, but I do think that there have been some improvements. For one, Italian Vogue sold out so quickly that anyone who ever makes that argument about black celebrities not selling covers again will sound like an even bigger fool than he/she did the first time around!! And I do see some rays of hope. We now have young models like Chanel Iman, Jourdan Dunn and Selita Ebanks doing their thing but, yes, there’s no denying that the fashion industry has a looong way to go in terms of proper representation and inclusion of black and Latino models.
I dont know, I have a problem with begging whites for attention and work.
I from the F.U. school.
I’d like to see these ladies to think out side the box in terms of their careers as either designers, or other career avenues in entertainment were they can be independent and set the trends.
In a sense, I feel that black people just aren’t interested in true FASHION. Which then,imo, makes it hard for designers and models alike. Why produce for an uninterested market?
It is not about begging the white fashion establishment, it is more about getting respect and support from the business that so many Black people support financially that enable them to have a business at all. Those establishment have been biting are innate style for centurys, and it is way over due that give back. It is a travisty that at this day and age with the incredible range of of our beauty that, that month after month that we see the same white girls having more than one cover a year. Or some celebritythat is so unknown that you are like who the hell is that did she really need a cover. When there so many women of color past and present that are inspirations and have paid more than enough dues to be showcased. In additon people of color need to stop choosing a white esthetic as superior to there own. As much money as we spend on fashion and the fact that there is not a black Calvin Klein, Donna Karen, or YSL, etc. is disguting and sickening. I could go on and on but i will stop here. I am a African American man that has been in the Fashion all my life, from photographer, model,makeup Artist, and now Accesories Designer. I make limited editions hats in exotic skins, leather, and suedes. Watch for my sh** bout to blow the top off this moth****. And represent our beauty and style that has never been seen in history. sighning off now Mr. NOT PLAYIN.
America boasts a greatly diverse population, yet the fashion houses refuse to porrtray that. The number of minority models on the runway during fashion week can be accounted for on one hand. It is very disappointing, and I hope it does not take a black president to encourage the hiring of minorities, both men and women on runways and in editorial ads, because it would just be under false pretenses. Though I would be glad to see more of my fellow minorities in the fashion industry, it would be sad that they are not chosen because of their talents, but because fashion houses just want to be part of the popular crowd. These agencies and fashion houses always claim to seek exotic and new looks, however their “new look” for decades has been caucasian models with blonde hair and frail looking bodies. Here’s hoping that this changes sooner rather than later.
I left the comment under Nicholas stating that i am a hat designer. I can be reached at nicholaswhiteheadimages@yahoo.com for any interest in the Nicholas Whitehead Hat collection.
While it is a travesty that the fashion world has not opened the doors to let Black models & designers walk in, I think the answer to the problem is one of two:
A) We as black fashion purveyors need to create our own doors and walk through them – i.e., take the industry over in our own unique way, get smart about our money, our businesses and our management, and get to work marketing hard and non-stop…create our own paths to success.
B) We can barge into those doors that refuse to open wide enough. That takes a strong marketing backbone, an immense dose of courage and persistence. Educating ourselves about the business end of things, networking with the right people one person/group at a time and being well-positioned to grab that chance when its offered.
Either route chosen, we need to never give up and never complain that the mainstream world has chosen to marginalize us. That is the way it works out here. But we have seen over and over again testaments to the fact that Black folk can do and be anything (as long as we got our shyt togther first!)
Stop complaining and create your own fashion industry this is the major problem bp have, they always want the same people who do not care about our image to control it.
I agree with Mike & Tiffany!
I wrote a personal narrative about my experiences as a model on my site. I have seen so many beautiful girls of color get turned away at open calls or be offer less than acceptable jobs. It’s an uphill battle, the Euro-Centric beauty industry doesn’t yet fully accept faces of color, it’s important for us to have our own brands i.e. Carol’s Daughter and cater to brands that embrace more ethnic looks. After all, the fashion industry being the most diverse in the world, should be first to convey a more global perspective on what is acceptable in the beauty industry. It takes time for people of non-ethic decent to even notice the lack of colorful faces in beauty because they are so conditioned not to look for them. As consumers we must demand images that depict familiar faces and educate our daughters about their own beauty and where is resides, which is within…..Until things change it’s nice to have a educated role model in the white house for young women to admire.
[...] I wrote an article for Clutch essentially asking, where the hell are all the colored people in the fashion industry? Thai Randolph must have heard me loud and clear. Last month, the former markting exec left he cozy [...]
We have to think about how often we (the African American community) support designers and models sharing our own demographic. I’m not saying don’t wear European labels, but I am encouraging readers to be JUST AS supportive of African American’s in the industry, some of which have been connected to amazing works and celebrities for decades. (i.e. Angela Dean and Kevan Hall).
Black people need to support one another first, before complaining about the fashion industry. Supporting black designers who DO showcase people who look like us is a start……
POLI$HED THE NEW URBAN FEMALE CLOTHING LINE FOR ALL OF THE COOL KIDS!! This line is an ALL FEMALE and BLACK OWNED company based out of Northern Ca. The Creator and designer is Christia’n C. Although her creations are not on the level of Runway fashion, she has INDEPENDENTLY developed a cool line that has caught the attention of many in the industry and on the net.
Google POLI$HED and see what happens..this young lady is really making a name for herself and her company SDMSTYLE.biz
Hello,
There are a lot of indie African American designers out there. However, we are over-looked and put on the wait list.I’m a fashion designer cowgirlheaven.blogspot.com and I ready to shine.