As Fashion Week winds down, there is bound to be the recap of the shows- who showed what, who sat where and who was spotted wearing what. But there seems to also be an informal assessment of the industry that happens and this time around, it appears the conversation has shifted.
In her post for the BVX, Yannique Benitez asks a question that much of the fashion world is asking as well: “Is Asian The New Black On The Runway?” Benitez writes:
“For the past few decades black models have fought to gain more representation in the fashion industry. Iconic models like Naomi Sims, Beverly Johnson, and Iman have paved the way for Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks and now Chanel Iman and Jourdan Dunn. But there is a new push for not only black but Asian faces on the runway… Asian models have become the new ‘exotic’ in fashion shows and are appearing in more and more general market ads.”
As the global market becomes more and more in Asia’s favor, many businesses have revised their strategy to appeal to their new customer base. Just last year Forbes interviewed Bernard Arnault, CEO of the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy group on his strategy to expand his business in the developing world. Speaking on new markets in Asia, Arnault is choosing to venture, explaining, “Today it’s clear that the world is driven by the growth of Asia and emerging countries.”
As the audience of luxury buyers changes, so have the women modeling the clothes. However, lest we get caught up in the recent waves of all Asian model editorial spreads and casting for shows- let’s all take a moment and reflect here.
Fashion is notorious for having all-black everything moments, so the latest Asian emphasis has to be taken with a healthy dose of skepticism. Last month when a cast of women of color were featured in Vogue Italia’s “The Black Allure” spread, Faith Cummings of Poshglam made a timely point, writing:
“The Black Allure” might not be the most appropriate title and is controversial in its own right. Is there really an allure that draws people to black women? Why must our color be a fetish and not something that is embraced and included in traditional notions of beauty? Is this an actual step in the right direction or is fashion having a moment in which shows and spreads are just featuring models all belonging to one ethnicity?”
Reducing ethnicity to a fetish isn’t empowering to any race. Fashion’s love for the exotic is a complicated one to understand- is it about the women or are designers treating the women under the clothes as just another interesting texture? I’m beyond exhausted with everything being the ‘new’ black. As a non-fashionista, it’s hard for me to take seriously, these industry spurts of racial love. This industry, like every other one may have to concede that its misplaced artistic expression is no substitute for committed reform.
What do you think ladies? Are Asian models the fashion industry’s new muse or just another ethnic obsession?
I think Asian models are just a wave of what’s “in” right now. They aren’t replacing black models at all since there has been an increase of them in the Fall runway shows. Asian models are just having their time to shine and when the fashion industry, sadly, gets tired of them it will be blonde hair blue-eyed women flooding the market again. Race or “looks” (as they call it) in the fashion industry is a trend. No its not right, but its truth.
I like that cover!! Maybe they are the latest obsession, but it’s not like Asian models are common.
I don’t see how Asian models could be an ethnic obsession considering China is a major force in the luxury industry at the moment. It’s logical that designers are holding shows in Asia i.e(Karl Lagerfeld, Prada, Calvin Klein.) because people from their are “buying” the product. There is also a lot of magazine publications in Asia .i.e Vogue India, Vogue China, Vogue Taiwan, Elle India and lots more. So their presence isn’t going to diminsh that fast because their own people are supporting the models and also have the companys to employee models of Asian descent.
I believe in more representation from all women of color in the fashion industry, not just black women. Being that brown people are the majority of the population worldwide, beige, brown, black, red, yellow faces need to be shown on the pages of editorials more frequently. It’s great to be considered exotic but why can’t our beauty be considered the norm! And besides Kimora Lee Simmons, no other designer (that I know of) regularly book models of African or Asian for shows or spreads.
I think it’s good to see more Asian women.
This is just another Western “trend” that will have it’s highs and it’s lows. It will not last however… because even in Asia most of their magazine covers prefer to have White models or White-Asian mixes on them compared to their own ethnic group
Sad… even Asians would prefer to see Whiter looking models on the covers of their magazines
I have no faith in that the industry will change soon. The only way it will change is the group that holds the power, wealth AND influence change from White to “other” and the white-washing and self-hatred that exists amongst people of color around the world diminishes
I second S.’s comment. Asian models are just the flavor of the month for right now.
Asian models will probably be ghettoized to Asian markets, just as major US companies re-shoot many of their campaigns with black models for placement in black magazines.
Its interesting because I was reading on a Asian blog that they (Asians) find that they (Asians) aren’t as heavily represented in the fashion runways or in fashion magazines….
Well…it seems that it’s not the case.
Whether it’s here to stay or simply the new trend, I love seeing Asian models more! Asians are way underrepresented even in Asia, where the fashion houses of Tokyo prefer to use white models. It’s about time that Asians got their chance to shine, nearly everyone else has.
It doesn’t take a Fashionista to understand the market. If the Asian market is dominating now, they need representation whether for a season, a decade or permanently. They might be the new muse or they might be the “new black” but whatever the case they are here and that’s a start. It will be up to them to push the boundaries and fight for their equality beyond this opportunity to shine.
As much as I love fashion, it is a shitty business to be in. I believe that Asian women sadly are just what’s “in” at the moment. Black women were “in” in the 80s and early 90s which is why if you look back you’ll notice a larger number of black models working during that period then in the present moment. Who knows how long this will last.
I’m wondering if this means that Japanese women can now be in their own issue of Vogue. For ten years white women (….and a couple of black women) have been on the covers of Vogue Nippon (native name for Japan), and not one Asian women. What’s up with that??
havent white people always seen asian women as beautiful though? thats all i see white men dating and obsessing over. hmm how odd.